Steeped in mythology, Gaztelugatxe still has lessons for the traveller of today.
On the Stone above the Sea
In a tiny corner of the Basque country, a stone staircase rises out of the sea. It rests on stone arches that loop like the Loch Ness monster through the churning surf. And the stairs, all 241 of them, carry pilgrims to a small chapel with big promises. Reach the top and you can ring the bell three times for guaranteed good luck.
Right now, I feel as though I need it. My knees creak and groan like the obligatory soundtrack of a pirate ship on the waves. My daughter, seven years old and the reason why I have pirates on my mind, skips ahead like a carefree whisper.
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The Myth and the Effects of Time
Separated from the land and surrounded by the elements, it’s hard not to wonder about the passage of time. Centuries have known this place, perceived as San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in Castilian Spanish and Gaztelugatxeko Doniene in Basque. According to legend, St John the Baptist himself visited, scaling the mount in only three steps: one for the beach, one halfway up and one for the peak where the chapel now rests.
My daughter is hot on his heels. And when, I wonder, just when did we cross from me slowly, carefully, holding her hand and helping her one step at a time to this. Her whizzing ahead. Me being left behind.
It’s beyond a cliche to say that having children changes your thoughts about the future. But here I am pondering those thoughts anyway.
When it comes to travel, the tightrope seems tighter than ever. How do we balance the powerful desire to explore, to see, to learn, to travel… with protecting the world so that our children can do the same?
Well, here’s how things currently stand in this part of the Basque country.
The Price of Popularity
For Gaztelugatxe on the Bay of Biscay, after years of relative seclusion, fame came fast.
Location scouts sourced the place for Dragonstone in the hit series Game of Thrones and now the crowds keep coming. Car after car, bus after bus. People may have swapped a religious calling to the chapel at the top for the lure of instagram shots and selfies but the pilgrimage continues just the same.
It’s a small space and is easily overwhelmed.
But Spain has learned a lot in the decades since those first high rises appeared.
And with Gaztelugatxe, here’s what they have chosen. While entry is free, to keep travel accessible, you must register to visit during peak times and a member of staff at the gate keeps control of any crowds. Car parking is limited and local buses run from local villages. In short, you need to put in the effort to get to see this place.
It’s a considerate approach to the threat of overtourism – and I rather like it.
In fact, the threads of managing the crowds run through the whole of this trip through the Basque country.
A Trip Through the Basque Country
The initial spark was a speaking gig I was invited to at a conference in San Sebastian. Years have passed since we first drove from Toulouse to Seville to start a new life, exploring the Basque Country, Segovia and Merida on the way. I’ve returned to Spain for work and pleasure many times but the collision of the speaking gig with the half term dates in the UK prompted the idea for a family road trip.
And perhaps that’s where fate had ideas of her own.
For the dates also clashed with a major sporting event in Bilbao. What began as something of a boring chore, navigating through booked up, sold out hotel booking forms, morphed into an adventure of its own.
A Different Side of Bilbao
We began, not entirely through choice, with a stay on the outskirts of Bilbao, some way from the usual attractions. A steep ridged, toppledy collection of buildings with not a tourist in sight, not a word of English in sound.
Breakfast began with a table in what became “our” local cafe, a place where liquid egg oozed into fresh tortilla in front of us and coffee came thick and strong. Our daughter played in the park with the local kids, swinging and sliding in the international language of play, and in the evenings, we sat at tables in the street with our pintxos and txakoli.
We enjoyed this relaxed pace so much that we decided to seek it out for the rest of the trip. While no trip to Bilbao would be complete without the metallic swirls of the Guggenheim and the Michelin-starred pintxos of the Old Town, we drank in the sweet relief of no crowds at the coastal promenade at Getxo, where dinner with drinks, no crowds, no queues, also came in at under 20 Euros – for all three.
Deba, Guernica and Udaibai
We drove to the sandy shores of Deba for a day, drawing shapes in the sand and lying on our backs, gazing at an unobstructed sky. In Guernica, we walked alone through the Park of the Peoples of Europe to see the sculptures from Eduardo Chillida and Henry Moore and paid our respects at the Peace Museum that honours the bombings of the past. There, we saw our first tourists in days: two Americans amid the kaleidoscopic reproductions of Picasso’s monochrome masterpiece.
After another round of pintxos, of course, with olives and anchovies this time, we drove through blissful solitude through the greens and blues of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve to a secluded guesthouse in Ea.
Squidged in among the fountain of text in the welcome email, was a reminder to book ahead if we wanted to visit Gaztelugatxe.
The Solution to Overtourism?
Standing out on the stone bridge, the Cantabrian Sea crashing around, the solution to overtourism seems deceptively simple: leave the crowds behind and explore the less visited areas. There is so much of beautiful Spain and the Basque country to share.
But of course, reality is always more complex. Such a strategy works fine for individual families but for how long will it continue to work if the world’s population keeps expanding? If everyone drifts away from the bruised and beaten path?
It is hard to say.
Some food, probably pintxos, for thought.
For now, though, I will embrace that approach.
And I’ll creak up Gaztelugatxe in the footsteps of my daughter, and I’ll ring the bell for good luck.
How to Plan a Family Friendly Road Trip from Bilbao
Here’s a sample family friendly itinerary for a road trip from Bilbao:
Day 1-2: Bilbao
- Explore the Guggenheim Museum (outdoor sculptures like “Puppy” are great for children).
- Stroll along the Nervión River and visit the Casco Viejo for a relaxed introduction to Basque culture.
- Take the funicular to Mount Artxanda for panoramic views and open space for children to run around.
- Try a family-friendly pintxos crawl in the Casco Viejo, with options like croquettes and mini hamburgers.
Drive: Bilbao to San Sebastián – 100 km (1 hr 15 min)
Day 3-4: San Sebastián
- Spend time on La Concha Beach, perfect for paddling and sandcastle-building.
- Take the funicular to Monte Igueldo, which has a traditional amusement park with gentle rides.
- Visit Aquarium San Sebastián, featuring a walk-through shark tunnel.
- Enjoy pintxos in the Gros district, where many places offer child-friendly options.
Drive: San Sebastián to Guernica – 80 km (1 hr 10 min)
Day 5: Guernica & Ea
- Visit the Guernica Peace Museum, with interactive exhibits on the town’s history and Picasso’s painting.
- Walk under the Tree of Guernica, an important symbol of Basque identity.
- Drive to Ea, a small fishing village, for a quiet lunch by the sea.
Drive: Ea to Deba – 45 km (45 min)
Day 6: Deba & Gaztelugatxe
- Walk a short section of the Flysch Route, known for its dramatic rock formations and family-friendly trails.
- Relax on Deba Beach, which is ideal for younger children.
- Drive to Gaztelugatxe (50 km, 50 min) and climb the 241 steps to the chapel at the top for stunning coastal views. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise it as “Dragonstone”. (For families with younger children, you may prefer to admire the view from the Mirador instead of the full climb.)
Drive: Gaztelugatxe to Getxo – 50 km (50 min)
Day 7: Getxo & Departure
- Walk across (or take the lift on) the Vizcaya Bridge, the world’s oldest transporter bridge and a UNESCO site.
- Spend time on Ereaga Beach, with a long promenade and plenty of space for children to play.
- Have a final meal in Puerto Viejo, a charming fishing district with good seafood restaurants.
- Drive back to Bilbao Airport for departure.
Drive: Getxo to Bilbao Airport – 20 km (20 min)
Additional Tips
- Renting a car with a spacious boot is useful for luggage and day trips.
- Consider a family-friendly pintxos tour in San Sebastián for an easier dining experience.
- Pack layers, as the coastal weather can change quickly.
- Bring travel games or audiobooks for the longer drives.
- Wear comfortable shoes for Gaztelugatxe – the climb is steep but rewarding.
More on Travel in Northern Spain
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